Question 1

What is EleHalo designed to do?

Accepted Answer

EleHalo is designed to reduce ignition vulnerability around your home by pre-wetting vulnerable exterior surfaces, helping suppress landed embers and low-intensity spot fires, and adding an active layer to defensible space and home hardening. It is not a guarantee that a house will survive a wildfire, and it does not replace evacuation orders, defensible space or home hardening.

Question 2

How many nozzles will my roof need?

Accepted Answer

Flat sections use one nozzle per 2 m². Saddle roofs are protected along their edges only, using one nozzle per 1 m of edge; you add each edge as a separate element, so unequal edges or a roof with only one side down are handled correctly. Perimeter fences and terrace borders use one nozzle every 1.5 m, and the rail ships as a 45 m set — each set also brings 15 m of feed tube, which the configurator adds to your tube total on top of the connection lengths you measure. The configurator applies these automatically as you enter each element, and shows the running total.

Question 3

Why is a circuit limited to 20 nozzles?

Accepted Answer

Beyond twenty nozzles on one line, the last nozzles no longer receive enough pressure to produce an even spray. Rather than let coverage quietly degrade, the configurator opens a new circuit. One protection set drives two circuits, up to thirty nozzles in total.

Question 4

What is in a protection set?

Accepted Answer

A set contains 30 nozzles, the manifold for two independent circuits, the tap connection, mounting clips, end caps and the installation hardware. It does not include tubing — tube length depends entirely on your layout, so it is ordered separately in 20 m or 50 m packs.

Question 5

My water pressure is low. Can I still use the system?

Accepted Answer

Yes, but plan conservatively. At low pressure each nozzle throws a smaller radius than the nominal figures, so you may want extra overlap or a pump. The configurator flags this rather than blocking you, so you can decide with your own measurements.

Question 6

Which water source should I use — mains, rain tank or swimming pool?

Accepted Answer

Mains water is fine for testing and most drills, but on a catastrophic fire day street pressure often drops because neighbours are all running sprinklers at once. A rain tank, dam or swimming pool with a dedicated pump is more reliable because it is independent of the grid. If you plan to draw from a pool, use a pump rated for the total circuit load and keep the intake clear of debris. On average, expect about 10 litres per minute for each 20-nozzle circuit, so size your tank or pump accordingly.

Question 7

How do I size a pump for a rain tank or swimming pool?

Accepted Answer

Size the pump for the total number of circuits you want to run at the same time. Each 20-nozzle circuit needs about 10 litres per minute at the tap. Two circuits therefore need roughly 20 L/min, four circuits need 40 L/min, and so on. Check the pump curve at the actual head you will ask it to work against: suction lift from the tank or pool surface up to the pump, plus the vertical rise to the highest nozzle and the friction loss in the feed hose. A petrol-driven firefighting pump is the most common choice for pool or tank setups because it delivers high flow at useful pressure and does not depend on mains electricity. Add a foot valve and a debris screen on the intake, and keep a spare fuel can with the pump. If your pool pump is electric and grid-dependent, treat it as a backup rather than the primary source.

Question 8

How do hoses, elevation and fittings affect pressure?

Accepted Answer

Every metre of tube, every fitting and every vertical metre the water must climb steals pressure from the nozzles at the far end. Long garden hoses are the worst culprit: a 30 m narrow hose can drop pressure more than the roof circuit itself. Elevation matters too — pushing water uphill to a second-storey roof costs roughly 0.1 bar per metre of rise. Tees, elbows and splitters add smaller but real losses, especially if they are cheap plastic fittings with narrow internals. You can mitigate most of this by keeping feed hoses short and wide, using the system’s own push-fit tube for the roof runs, minimising elbows, and sizing your pump or tank setup for the total flow plus the actual head. If the configurator warns about a long connection, treat it as a sign that a separate tap point or a garden-hose extender will perform better than one very long run.

Question 9

What does high pressure change?

Accepted Answer

With a strong supply, a single tap can feed two protection sets through a Y-type dual outlet. The configurator halves the number of taps you need and adds the correct number of Y-outlets to your parts list automatically.

Question 10

Can I run it from a tank and pump instead of mains?

Accepted Answer

That is the setup we recommend where it is practical. Mains supply can fail or drop in pressure exactly when the whole street is running sprinklers. A dedicated tank and a petrol pump keeps working when the grid does not.

Question 11

Can I install it myself?

Accepted Answer

Most customers do. The tube is push-fit, the nozzles clip to roof edges, verges and gutters, and the tap connector screws onto a standard outdoor tap. If you are uncomfortable working at height, hire a roofer for the mounting and do the plumbing yourself.

Question 12

Do I get an installation manual?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and it is generated from your own configuration rather than being a generic booklet. After checkout you can download a manual that lists your branches tap by tap, the tube length on every hop, how many nozzles each element takes and which way to aim them, plus push-fit tubing technique, circuit wiring, commissioning and fire-day checks.

Question 13

Which way should the nozzles point?

Accepted Answer

On flat sections, point them upward or angled towards the nearest edge — one nozzle per 2 m², with the tube runs parallel to each other so the mist falls evenly back over the surface. On saddle edges and around roof elements such as solar panels or a chimney, alternate the direction: one nozzle up over the roof plane (or towards the element), the next down over the verge and gutter (or away from it). The flexible 20 cm arm turns a full 360° and holds whatever shape you bend it to.

Question 14

How do I measure connection lengths?

Accepted Answer

Measure from the tap to the first roof element, then from each element to the next, following the route the tube will actually take along edges and corners. Add roughly ten percent — almost everyone underestimates.

Question 15

Should the system stay connected all the time?

Accepted Answer

Best practice is to install the kit but leave the connector near the tap so it can be plugged in within about 10 seconds when a warning is issued. If you prefer, plug it in whenever you leave the house on a high-risk day. Add the remote module and you can plug the system back in from anywhere when a warning is issued for your neighborhood — you do not need to be home to start it.

Question 16

How do I clean and maintain the nozzles?

Accepted Answer

Unscrew the brass tip and rinse it under tap water. A toothpick clears stubborn debris, but never enlarge the bore. Check every nozzle at the start of fire season: it should turn freely and hold the angle you set.

Question 17

What should I check after a test run?

Accepted Answer

Drain the low points of each circuit so water does not stagnate, check every fitting for drips, and make sure the spray reached every configured element. Re-seat any leaking push-fit connection after re-cutting the tube end square.

Question 18

How often should I inspect the system?

Accepted Answer

At the start of each fire season and after any roof work. Look for UV-cracked tube, loose straps or clamps, white brittle tubing, and nozzles that no longer turn or hold their aim.

Question 19

How is tubing packed?

Accepted Answer

In 20 m and 50 m packs. The configurator picks the cheapest combination that covers your total run and tells you how many spare metres you will have left.

Question 20

What are the two optional extras?

Accepted Answer

A remote module that lets you start, stop and schedule the system from your phone, and a hose adapter that connects a set to a standard garden hose fitting such as Gardena. Both are per water point, and both are optional.

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